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Thu, 27 Oct 2011

Burgundy 2011: Pommard, Volnay and Mersault.

Getting back into blogging, finally. Some travel blogging.

Today, hired a bike in Beaune and cycled to Pommard, Volnay and Mersault. The Cote-de-Beaune is looking beautiful, with the grape vines all still in leaf, and grapes hanging off the vines, almost ready to be picked. Almost, just a few days until harvest...

Vineyards near Beaune

Stopped first in Pommard. I had a meeting arranged for 10h30 at Domaine Mussy. I didn't have a map of Pommard, so tried using my phone's navigation software. It crashed, so I had to reboot it. Thanks, Google... Got there finally 15 minutes late but luckily they did not mind.

M. Meuzard, the winemaker, doesn't speak English, but Mme. Meuzard does. We head down into the cellar for a tasting. The cellar is low-ceillinged, 15th-century. The winery was founded over four hundred years ago -- in 1646 -- and has been in the same family ever since. Mme. shows me the barrel room -- they do not use much new oak, only ~10%, as it obscures the terroir.

The barrel room
The barrel room, Domaine Mussy.

I try some wines. I try first the 2009 Beaune Epenottes -- a very good year, but still young and very closed. Needs at least 4 years, according to Mme. Meuzard. I try then the 2001 from the same vineyard -- elegant, perfumed, some evolved/autumnal characters on the nose, tannins still firm but elegant, red fruit. Mme. Meuzard says that this is their most feminine wine.

I am asked what sort of wine I would prefer -- Masculine (structured, intense) or feminine (lighter, perfumed). I am not used to thinking of wines in these terms, so hesitate. Try a more masculine wine next -- 2001 Beaune-Montremots. More tannins, but still very elegant. Good structure. Ten years old but would last longer. I forgot to try their Pommard, unfortunately. Next time...

M. Meuzard is enthusiastic to hear I am a student winemaker from Australia. I wish I could speak more French, so I could have spoken properly with him....

As I am leaving, realise I bought some wine but forgot to pay, so head back. Too easy to get distracted when enjoying a good conversation...

Head to Volnay, then Mersault. Cycle around Mersault for a bit, then see a shop called Art du Tonneau, a barrelmaker. He has a short video in French, so I go in. The shopkeeper -- perhaps M. Gillet, the tonnelier -- doesn't speak much English but gives some commentary to the video. He sells in Australia, including to some very well-regarded domaines. He kindly offers me a coffee while I watch the video -- I have an espresso.

Afterwards, I head to Volnay and try to see a domaine there. I try one first, but they only sell by the case so cannot give me a tasting. I try another, more-or-less at random -- Domaine Christophe Vaudoisey. I ask "parlez-vous anglais?", but get a non, he only speaks French. Ah, a problem. I ask for a tasting, je voudrais gouter votre vin? He doesn't really follow my bad French. After a minute, he asks if I would like a "degustation"... ah, that's the word I should have used, but forgot...

I follow him down to the cellar. I try a Volnay first, then two Volnay 1er cru. The Volnay is very good, but both 1er crus have a certain something extra... more character, more structure. Then I notice he also has a Mersault, a 1er cru also. I try this last -- wrong order, but can't be helped. I buy one bottle of a Volnay 1er cru -- 'je voudrais...' is the correct phrase, and I remember it for once.

On the way back to Beaune, I finally have the lunch I packed this morning. It's 17h, not exactly lunch time, but still...

Rain is forecast for tomorrow, and the skies still glower, threatening with grey clouds. The grapes wait for harvest. The vignerons, I presume, pray the rain is not too heavy, not this late in the year.

posted at: 03:36 | path: /travel/france/burgundy | permanent link to this entry


I had a picnic lunch today. A baguette, some cheese and a terrine. All that was missing was the bottle of wine...


I thought: this picnic, although very simple, would be impossible in Australia. Why? A good cheese, made with unpasteurised milk is expensive and hard to get (used to be illegal, but rules on unpasterised cheeses are slowly starting to relax...). I might find a decent baguette if I'm lucky enough to live near a good bakery. The terrine would be simpler (though what I had, partridge and almond, would be impossible).

Oh, and I mentioned wine. As far as I know, you're not allowed to drink in public places (eg, parks) in most of Australia. Seems okay in France, and rioting has not yet broken out as a result...

posted at: 03:36 | path: /travel/france/burgundy | permanent link to this entry

Fri, 26 Aug 2011


My weblogging continues...

Today was meant to be the day I visited Gevrey-Chambertin. A train from Beaune stops there reguarly. I wanted to branch out, and see some of Burgundy beyond the Cotes de Beaune.

I hadn't counted on the weather. Rain, thunder, lightening. Not good. Especially with the grape harvest only days away. Mildew suddenly becomes a threat, and picking grapes in the rain is no fun.

So I go to Dijon. Dijon, to see the old streets and the cathedral with the gargoyles.

In Dijon, my first stop is the first church I see -- the church of St. Benigne. A lovely, typical Gothic church, it hides a secret: a romanesque crypt from the 11th century.

11th century crypt

I descend. The first room is low and wide, with many romanesque columns. A statue of Christ, his arms outstretched in welcome. Another room: a rotunda, surrounded by columns. An altar. A doorway through to a gallo-roman chapel, once at ground level, now part of the crypt. Another doorway leads off, to more passageways. Most are still blocked, buried, yet to be excavated.

Reluctantly, I head back up into the daylight. The museum of archaeology nextdoor beckons. Here I find more treasures: a bronze age gold torc, more than 1kg of gold -- a metal more common then, oddly, than now. A roman statue of doves. Post-roman enamels and belt-buckles, intricate in their working.

The best is in the lowest level: an old medieval room full of roman funerary memorials, memories of the long dead. Early medieval wooden figures, dredged from river mud.

Dijon street
Street in Dijon

Out in the light again, I head for the Palais des Ducs. A follow one sign, only to find it leads in the wrong direction. I find another, and follow that. After walking around in circles, I find it eventually. It is now the town hall and the Musee des Beaux Arts. I wonder around, and see what I can of the exterior.

I notice another church: Notre Dame. I am drawn by the impressive gargoyles on the exterior. Coming closer, I notice portions of the portice still have some of their original paint, just faint traces but still there.

wall painting

Inside, I notice a few original scraps of wallpainting survive from the 15th century. A service is in progress in a candlelit side chapel: song fills the church.

I head for the train. I don't like to leave: there is always one more thing to look at, another photograph to take. I don't want to miss the train, though. I head on.

At the station, I can't find the machine to validate my ticket. Eventually I find it, not on the platform, but inside the station. On the train I can relax: I haven't missed it, I'm getting back in time for dinner. Beaune beckons.

posted at: 09:10 | path: /travel/france/burgundy | permanent link to this entry

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